Welsh Rarebit. A Noble Cheese on Toast Times Two
A Noble Cheese on Toast
Is there anything better in the world than home-made toast? One that is done properly: a slice of a good sourdough bread, of any kind, put under the grill setting in the oven, until it turns golden and crunchy on both sides when you bite into it, but still retaining some softness in the middle? I think not.
A step up from it would be grilling the bread over an open fire, to which our lifestyles and day to day cooking impose considerable limitations. So lets just settle for now with our kitchen ovens set to: grill.
I had heard vaguely about Welsh Rarebit in the past, once or twice. The Dégustatuer had mentioned it to me when looking for cheeses at Fortnum & Maison, many moons ago. I asked him then what it was as I was baffled by its name, which of course I read as rabbit instead of rarebit. He actually wasn’t too sure about this cheese mixture sold in a lovely pot, next to stilton. We bought it; but I must confess however, that we misused it. We toasted the bread but we didn’t toast the whole thing together….as it should be done from what I’ve learnt recently.
That toasting mishap happened when we came to London for a five day period (from Italy) and we rented a serviced apartment (so we could have at least toast in the kitchen). After that unsuccessful culinary tasting we left the Welsh rarebit and the lovely pot-container behind us. Until now.
Imagination is a very powerful thing, but at times, it can misguide you, or at least myself.
When asked again, the Dégustateur still wasn’t able to fulfil my curiosity. He referred to it as a toast of sorts, something that his father would have, who was not Welsh by the way, and that it’s something of a poor man’s food – an overly used word in today’s culinary world.
In essence, my knowledge was poor and without a shadow of a doubt, I needed to do some research. In my own mind and imagination, it was something that was created with humble ingredients, something rich – melted cheese, tasty and delectably simple. No, no rabbit meat inside; that fare had been reserved only for the wealthy. Frugal cooking at its best, elevated over the years to something exquisite.
Welsh Rarebit
No-one really knows any more how cheese on toast came to be called “rabbit” or “rarebit” (rabbit in Welsh).
What I do know is that this quintessentially British savoury snack-dish is something that sincerely deserves a greater level of attention.
The fruits of my recent online investigation revealed that Saint David’s Day, a feast day of Saint David, the patron saint of Wales, falls on the 1st of March and it seems to dominate the rest of the month. A great reminder that spring is on its way and an even better excuse to celebrate all things Welsh. The day is commemorated in parades, concerts and food festivals; a proper celebration of Welsh heritage and culture with the flag of Saint David flying throughout Wales. The festivities include wearing daffodils and leeks (recognised symbols of Wales) as well as traditional dishes like: cawl (soup), tea loaf, Welsh cakes, Welsh lamb and, of course, Welsh rarebit. (source: Wikipedia)
In late January, quite serendipitously and with a particular curiosity, the Dégustateur and I travelled to the Welsh coast, to inspect a piece of a real estate, situated right at the seafront of Aberystwyth (a university town). It was a very early start to the day, long drive, all possible weather conditions and a storm, which hindered me from holding my camera still on that day. But the stunning scenery, rolling hills and fresh air made up for it all. We stayed overnight in a little town nearby. We had our afternoon tea there, a very refreshing and invigorating walk, we got a room with a direct sea view and got fed very well at dinner. I’d happily repeat exactly the same trip in the future.
Inevitably, upon our return to our little London mews house, I went at length through my most trusted cook books, to find a recipe that would satisfy my taste buds. Well, I selected and tested two recipes, between which I find it very hard to choose from right now. Thus, below I’m sharing them both. A proud toast times two, something new to celebrate March with.
The ingredients are mostly the same: a hard cheese to melt – Cheddar is always good, Guinness beer, Worcestershire sauce and mustard. The spiced melted cheese mixtures differs slightly in consistency, one recipe uses flour as the thickening agent, another one calls for egg yolks, giving it a lighter and velvety texture. A bit chef-y – some may say, but it’s still a very simple and modest snack to make, a crowd pleaser of very well concocted flavours, and seasoned properly, the key to every good dish. Served with a crisp green salad on the side, and perhaps a boiled or fried egg, it’s a meal on its own.
Do give it a try, believe me – you’ll not regret it!
Welsh Rarebit -“The Book of St. John”
1. Welsh Rarebit – “The Book of St. John” by Fergus Henderson & Trevor Gulliver
Serves 4:
– a knob of butter
– 1 tablespoon of plain flour
– 1 teaspoon of English mustard powder (if hard to find use a strong mustard instead )
– 1/2 a teaspoon of cayenne pepper
– a very long splash of Worcestershire sauce (plus more to serve)
– 200 ml of Guinness
– 450 g of mature strong Cheddar cheese, grated
– 4 large pieces of a good white bread
Method:
Melt the butter in a small pan, stir in the flour and let it cook together until releasing nutty notes but not browning.
Add the mustard powder and cayenne pepper, stir in the Worcestershire sauce, next the Guinness. and finally gently melt in the cheese.
Once the mixture has reached a homogenous consistency, take the pan off the heat.
After a few minutes pour it into a shallow container lined with cling film, and allow to set.
You can keep it covered in the fridge for a good few days.
Toast each piece of bread on both sides. I normally set my oven to 180 C Grill.
Allow the bread to cool a little. Cover each slice with the rarebit mixture, about 1 cm thick (press it on with your fingers if it doesn’t spread with ease).
Line a baking tray with a sheet of baking parchment. Place the prepared bread on the tray and place under the grill until golden and bubbling (allowing the flour to cook through).
Serve hot with a bottle of Worcestershire sauce on the side (optional).
Before pouring the sauce on top of the hot melted rarebit, make a criss cross pattern or a couple of lines with a knife, so the sauce can run through the melted cheese.
I’m quite heavy handed with the spices and seasoning hence I don’t feel the need for extra sauce here. With or without the sauce, eat as you like it the most.
Welsh Rarebit-“J. Sheekey”
2.Welsh Rarebit “J. Sheekey, Fish”
Serves 4:
– 80 ml of Guinness
– 80 ml of double cream
– 150 g of grated Cheddar cheese
– 1 teaspoon of English mustard (or any other strong mustard)
– 2 teaspoons of Worcestershire sauce
– 2 medium egg yolks
– salt
– black pepper
– 4 slices of a good white bread (best if compact, without big holes)
Simmer the Guinness in a saucepan until it has reduced by half.
Add cream and reduce by half again.
Stir in the cheese and stir until it melts completely.
Remove from the heat and stir in the mustard, the Worcestershire sauce followed by the egg yolks. Season well.
Leave to cool or keep in the fridge until needed.
Pre-heat the grill, say 180 C. Toast the bread on both sides.
Spread the cheese mixture on top (about 1cm of coating) right to the edges.
Grill until deliciously golden browned in colour.
Serve warm, with or without a bottle of Worcestershire sauce on the side.
